The community of Pensilvania (apologies for previous American spelling) turned out to be bizarrely friendly. OK this time we had extra permits and had passed the message over “Radio San Antonio” but they were nothing short of warm, welcoming and, well, oddly nice considering their previous threats. It made me think again about how dangerous [...]

From Atalaya, the Ucayali meanders north towards Pucallpa. We had been told that we didn’t need to get a permit from OIRA, the organisation that oversees the affairs of the indigenous communities on the Ucayali because the area is “open” and “understanding”. In a community called Santa Luz we were indeed treated incredibly well. We [...]